So as the title says, my Salsa Casseroll model 2009 is almost two years old and I’ve ridden it for over 8,000 km. I felt like giving a quick update on my impression of the bike.

It performed absolutely flawlessly, and this provides me with a great, comfortable ride. My idea for the build was to have a versatile bike that I could use for long distance cycling, randonneuring as well as for trips around town and to the Biergarten. The pedals with a platform on one side and clips on the other side are great for this, and this year I successfully completed a 200km and 300km brevets. I’ve already registered for a complete randonneuring series for next year.

I’ve changed very little on the bike so far:

• Changed the Supernova E3: I had bought the model with symmetrical beam and this was a mistake. This light is just way too bright and most of the light is directed upward, blinding oncoming traffic. I had cars high-beaming me almost every time I was riding out at night, and I regularly saw pedestrians shielding their eyes with their hands as I was riding past. I changed the light for a SON eDeluxe, this light is very good and unlike the Supernova E3 I could mount it on the fork crown even with cantilever brakes. (Now I see on Supernova’s website that they do offer a titanium plate to mount the E3 on the fork crown with cantilever brakes too, but that wasn’t available at the time I built my bike)
• Rear light: Got fried after a while when I was using with the Supernova E3. I bought the same rear light model again and have had no problem hooking it to the SON eDeluxe.
• Changed the Brooks Team Pro saddle: After the 200km brevet, I had a small saddle sore on the right side and I felt some kind of “lump” near my seat bone. It felt a bit as if the tendon there had been bruised. A doctor confirmed the tendon that connects the hamstring to the seat bone was being squeezed and bruised, which results in some calcification inside the tendon/muscle. It is nothing bad yet, but he said if I kept the same saddle and rode a lot this would become a problem in the future. I bought a Brooks Swift as a replacement and rode it on the 300km brevet. It was better but not yet ideal I think.
• Rear fender: Got broken when the bike was banged against something and I replaced it with the same model.

The original Schwalbe Marathon Racer tires are still on, but after 8,000 km they are not looking so good anymore. They could be ridden for another 1,000 km or so, but they are now riddled with large cuts from riding over broken glass. I’ve had 3 or 4 punctures during those 8,000 km, which is very good I think.

Lastly, the front fender is a tiny bit too short and I’ve noticed very early that the front tire was spraying water all over my shoes and bottom bracket. Problem is even after looking all over the internet I couldn’t find a mud flap that would do the job. The only model that I’ve seen that could have fitted was from Brooks, and I thought a leather mud flap was a bit overkill. So I decided to build my own, here’s how it looks now:

Mudflap

If I find some time, I will post a description of how I built and mounted this mud flap.

Anyway, really happy with the bike and looking forward to another few year of great riding!

Which I have put together myself, that was the main DIY project of last year and that was quite a big deal for me because I had never built a bicycle before.

So I thought of taking pictures, documenting it a bit and putting it online. I relied heavily on the Internet for information, so I guess I see this as giving back some of the information and experience I got off the Internet.

Actually, building a bicycle is really easy. I found it more challenging to choose the correct parts before building the bike and to tune up the bike once it is built.

A little bit of background information on the bike itself: I want to ride more in 2009, and I want to ride longer. In 2008, I took an interest in long distance cycling and ultracycling. I eventually would like to participate in Paris-Brest-Paris, if it is organized in 2011.

So I wanted a bike specifically for long distances. There’s nothing really wrong with using a racing bike for long distances, but a lot of people prefer using bikes that are slightly different, mainly with modifications / features geared towards improving comfort.

Why did I decide to build my bike myself? Mainly because it is not easy to find stock bicycles with the sort of requirements I had, and buying a custom bike from my shop would have cost me a lot more. Also, I thought I would learn a lot about the way a bike works and that would be useful knowledge for maintenance and repair.

I settled for a Salsa Casseroll frame, because steel is real my friends. It is a comfortable material, and all my previous bicycles were made of steel, so that was an easy choice. The Casseroll is sort of a “sport tourer” frame, with quite a relaxed geometry, longer chainstays and eyelets for fenders and a rack at the rear.

Before:

After:

Now for the building part, let’s see it step by step.

First of all, you need a work stand. I’m sure it’s possible to do it without one, but you’ll save yourself a lot of hassle and discomfort if you have a montage stand. Mine is a Park Tool PS-9 I think.

Secure the frame on the stand.

I then started by installing the bottom bracket:

Real easy with the correct tool (hollowtech wrench), just grease the threads generously and screw the drive side of the bottom bracket first. Thread tightly.

Then move to the other side, it should look like this:

And thread the other end of the bottom bracket.

With the same hollowtech wrench, thread tightly and it’s done, bottom bracket installed!

Then I installed the headset, which basically means pressing the headset cups in the head tube.

I put the headset cups in the ice compartment of my fridge for a half hour, the cold is supposed to make then shrink a little which should make them easier to press in the tube.

Grease the cups and the inside of the headtube.

I used a headset press tool to do the job. I’ve read that some people make a DIY press with a system of bolt and washers, but I wouldn’t really trust it. You really want to do this right because the frame could be damaged if the cups are pressed in askew. The press cost me 30 euros, which I though was a worthwhile investment.

It takes about two minutes in total to press the cups in, it should then look like below.

So that’s it, the headset cups are pressed in.

The other part of the headset that needs to be installed is the fork crown race. This is a tricky one to install, I had to take mine to the bike shop to have it installed there. Same thing, you don’t want that to be installed askew or to damage your fork, and I don’t know any cheap tool to do it. I’ve read that there is also a DIY method: putting the crown race in the oven for a while to dilate it, and then use a piece of PVC tube to bang it in. I’ve tried it, it didn’t work for me, I think it depends on the brand of the bike/fork, they probably don’t always go in easily.

Anyway, bike shops will do it.

 

Cranks installation:

Grease the cranks axle and insert it through the bottom bracket.

Then fix the left crank arm on the axle on the other side. The crankset should also come with a little cap to be put on the left side. Screw it on but don’t overdo it, it just needs to be fingertight.

Tighten the bolts on the left crank arm, making sure the security plate is tucked in. Tighten each bolt alternately, a little bit at a time until they are both very tight.

 

The Salsa Casseroll frame has some almost horizontal dropouts so it can be set up as a singlespeed/fixed gear, as shown below:

It comes with some screws to keep the rear wheel axle at a certain spot.

This is the correct way to install them, I first had them the other way around but then realized that this was wrong. This way you can adjust the position easily.

 

Since I was busy with the dropouts, it was also a good time to install the rear derailleur.

Very easy, just thread it really tight with an Allen wrench, and it’s done (on the picture the screws for the rear axle position are screwed in wrong).

 

Now to the brakes.

This is where to attach the rear brakes.

Thread it in, tighten on the opposite side and it’s done.

Same thing for the front brakes.

On this picture you can also see the fork crown race for the headset, this is the black ring at the base of the steering tube. Below that is the hole to attach the front brakes.

Same thing, insert the axle through the hole and tighten on the opposite side of the hole.

I then inserted the fork in the headtube after having installed the bearing of the headset.

 

Next up, installing the wheels.

A pair of Mavic Open Pros. Front hub is a SON 28 dynamo and rear hub is Shimano 105, both with DTSwiss Competition spokes. I had the rear wheel made by my bicycle shop. I put some cyclocross tubes and installed some Schwalbe Marathon Racer 700×30C tires.

The cassette needs to be installed on the rear hub.

Remove the axle from the wheel and put the cassette cogs on the drive side of the hub.

You need a special tool to secure the cassette on the hub, most toolbox sets have it. There is no need for a chain whip for installing the cassette, it is only needed to remove it.

Here is the rear wheel on the bike. On a geared setup like mine, this is better to put the axle as close to the exit of the dropout as possible for two reasons: the derailleur will operate better and the chain will not get caught on the screw for the fenders/rack whilst on the higher gears.

 

Moving on. Either the frame came with a seat clamp, either you need to install one, it should look like below:

With the seat clamp installed, just put the seatpost in (I don’t have a picture for that).

 

Front derailleur.

Clamp the front derailleur on the seat tube. The derailleur shoe should be about 1mm away from the biggest ring of the crankset.

 

The controls still need to be installed, I started by assembling the handlebar.

STI levers, handlebar and stem before assembly.

Same after assembly, make sure that the tip of the brake levers is aligned with the drops of the handlebar. It can then be inserted on the steering tube.

 

Pedals.

The pedals need to be threaded on the crank arms.

Thread the pedals in tightly with the appropriate wrench.

These are Shimano PDM A-530. I chose them because they have a click system on one side, and a platform on the other side, meaning you can also cycle with normal shoes.

 

Now, back to the control/headset area, the steering tube needs to be cut, this is a rather tricky part.

Insert the bearing of the headset, some spacers (if necessary) and the stem on the steering tube of the fork. Here you can see that I have added a couple of spacer on top of the stem. Why? Because I was not sure that the handlebar height was exactly the way I wanted it, and I wanted to have the option to move the handlebar up a bit.

That’s the thing with those threadless headsets, you can’t adjust handlebar height. I have a quill stem on a threaded headset on my racing bike, which is adjustable. I am not sure I see threadless systems as an improvement over the old system…

So you have to cut the tube at the correct height, this is better to check it three times before doing it, and you don’t want to have it too short of course, because then you would need to buy a new fork! So that’s why I put a couple of spacers above the stem, to have the possibility to put the handlebar higher, and if I didn’t get the height right, it’s better to have it longer than shorter.

I might cut it shorter at a later time.

So to cut the tube: insert all the spacers you need, then trace a line with a pen. You will need to cut about 2 or 3 mm below this line.

I made this line at the top of my spacers. I cut the tube about 3 mm below the line.

Here is the cut steering tube with the star nut pressed in. I actually didn’t cut it myself, I brought it to my bike shop instead because I didn’t have a proper saw nor a saw guide, and this really needs to be done right too.

Then insert the spacers again, put the headset cap on top and thread the bolt in. Finished for this part.

 

Moving on to cables. I first installed the brake cables.

Insert a ferrule on the brakes cable housing and insert it in the brake lever under the rubber hood (which you can flip to allow access). Then use some electrical tape to hold the cable housing in place on the handlebar.

For the front brakes, just cut the cable housing at the right length and insert it in the brakes. Mine didn’t need a ferrule at the brakes end.

For the rear brakes, cut the housing at the right length for the first frame bosses, insert a ferrule and insert the housing in the boss as shown below.

And the same at the other boss on the top tube near the seat tube.

This is the correct length for the rear brakes, it should have this slightly curvy line.

 

For all the cables, this is important to cut the housings at a length that allows the handlebar to rotate freely.

The best way to do it is to move the handlebar fully to one side and the other, and hold the cable with your fingers at the cable stop, leaving just enough length to allow the handlebar to move freely from one side to the other, and then cut at that length. It’s better to use a cable cutter for a clean cut, and use a bit of sandpaper to remove rough bits at the cuts.

I have decided to have some cyclocross brakes as well, here’s how to install them.

First, attach the brake levers on the handlebar at a comfortable angle, and not too close to the stem. Remove the brake cable from the cable housing and cut at the right length, where it meets the cyclocross brake lever.

Then insert a ferrule…

… and insert the housing with the ferrule in the brake lever.

Insert the brake cable in the housing again until it comes out like above.

Then insert a ferrule on the other bit of cable housing, pass it through the brake cable until it meets with the brake lever as shown above. Insert the other end of the cable housing in the brake.

It is important to have the housings at the correct length, as these brake levers, unlike the main brakes, do not pull the cable, but rather push the cable housings to operate the brakes.

Here is how it should look like when both brake levers are installed.

 

Shifting cables.

Insert the cable through the tiny hole in the STI lever.

It comes out like this at the other end. Insert a ferrule on the cable housing (I used waterproof ferrules) and pass the housing through the cable until the ferrule sits tight at the STI lever.

 

The Salsa Casseroll frame does not have cable stops for shifting cables, it has some bosses for downtube shifters instead.

You need to buy some cable stops if it didn’t come with your frame. They are pictured below.

Install the cable stops on the downtube shifter bosses.

And insert the housing in the cable stops.

When all the cables are in place, it looks like this.

 

I then fastened all the cables at the brakes and derailleurs:

Front brakes. Fasten with an Allen wrench.

Front Derailleur.

Rear Derailleur. Notice the length of the cable housing. The loop shouldn’t be too long nor too short as it would put some strain on the cable if it is too tight.

 

I then proceeded to put the chain at the right length, according to the Sheldon Brown method.

A chain tool is required to install the chain.

The bike is almost complete now, though not operational because the derailleurs need to be adjusted.

On all derailleurs, there are two adjusting screws to limit the reach of the derailleur in both directions. Here on the rear derailleur.

And here on the front derailleur. I found it quite challenging to tune it up properly, but I made it eventually.

At this stage, I was only left with the handlebar tape and the fenders.

To install the handlebar tape, roll up the rubber hoods so that they are not in the way, like when installing brake cables.

The tape should come with two extra strips to be put at the back of the brake levers.

Handlebars with tape on.

Now the bike is finished and fully operational.

Complete bike without fenders.

Complete bike with fenders.

Not appearing on the picture of the finished bike:

- Front light Supernova E3

- Bell

- Rack, which I haven’t bought yet.

Complete list of parts:

01/01/09

Anyway, it’s here, and I love it!

Here’s a few pictures for posterity:

The pictures are not too good, I’ll edit one of these days with some pictures taken with natural light.

So this Salsa Casseroll frame is going to be the basis of my new bike for long distances. It’ll be mostly built around Shimano 105/Ultegra parts.

I’ll post some pictures of the building process and a list of parts later.

Anyway, the blog is practically dead, and I’m thinking of ways of reviving it. To make it interesting for me, so I actually get the motivation to write something in the evening when I come back from work. And maybe make it a little more interesting for the couple of people who somehow find their way here. 

Macs and bicycles, that’s probably the next focus. Stay tuned… (or not) 

I had to laugh hard when I stumbled upon the name of one of our clients at work, look at that and click to visit their site:

They’re German-speakers, should someone let them know?

BTW, yes, I know it’s been ages since my last post but well, I’ve been very busy lately. Hopefully things will be a little more settled for me in the next few weeks.Yeah, hopefully. 

So I just have to fire up Dictionary.app or use the widget, and I have an ultra-quick translation. You just type in your word in English or German and it will give you the translation in the corresponding language right away.

It’s only compatible with Leopard since Tiger’s version of Dictionary.app doesn’t support plugins.This is one feature of Leopard I never thought I’d love

No no, this is not groundless attack from my part, this really is a legitimate question.

My question has been prompted by her reaction to this story. The Nouvel Observateur claims that her new husband, Nicolas Sarkozy, has sent an SMS to his ex-wife Cecilia just 8 days before he married Carla Bruni saying “If you come back now, I’ll call it all off”.

I know, this is bad journalism and doesn’t really call for an answer, but she went ahead nonetheless, after a few days of preparing the answer. The answer is in two parts, and both are appallingly stupid. She said “the lawsuit that my husband has initiated is not against a member of the press, but against the ‘new means of disinformation’”, by that she means the Internet of course. And she goes on to say: “If this kind of site had existed during the war, what do you think would have happened as far as denouncing the Jews is concerned?”
Now that made me sit right up on my chair. Did she actually compare the Nouvel Observateur to the collaborationist press of WWII over a stupid f****** SMS? Yes she did, well done Carla, you’re not embarrassing yourself and more importantly you’re showing that you definitely have the standing of a true First Lady. I can’t believe people doubted you. And by the way, this is a perfect example of Godwin’s Law.

Let’s go back to the first part of her answer: “new means of disinformation”. “New”? what the heck do you mean, “new”? The Internet has been a huge vector of all kinds of misleading information and information warfare for over a decade Carla, remember, that goes back to when you were still in your 20s… There’s nothing new about it. You’re a model, that means you should know a little bit about the media.

I personally find it rather amusing that she’s been an integral part of this massive PR and communication operation set up by her husband, the French President, over their relationship and marriage, they’ve both been riding the wave to the max and probably counted on the Internet to spread the news even faster. And now suddenly she spits in the soup and blames it on the media and Internet.

So Carla, are you really stupid? Or do you think we are stupid?

Believe me, I will definitely make true on my earlier promise to cycle between France and Germany next time, instead of taking the bus.